More to Napoli...

More than just Pizza and garish Nativity Scenes (Presepi), Naples is a complex, seedy and enchanting city. I had been warned in the “North” about the crime and the cities outward decay, but my upbringing forces me to want to bump to a cities pulse firsthand and allow what and where I eat to inform my comfort zones. What I had heard was indeed visible; Prostitution was abundant in surprisingly close proximity to my Hotel, the Mercato overrun by imitation and immigrant disillusionment, the streets alarmingly dirty and petty thieves as present and irritating as the mosquito’s in the Navigli, but of course there is more…

I was magnetized to Via Tribunali, and it was here, each day, that Naples unfolded with more and more life and gave me the comfort (and base) needed in every new City. Distinguishing itself from other “Centro” districts I have seen, Naple’s “Old City” wasn’t as lawless as Palermo. It felt insular and homey, rooted and loyal to its history, elements I always appreciated about Brooklyn. Like other Italian cities I’ve been to, zooming Vespa’s, painfully attractive men, impressive dried pasta selections and stunning Churches and Castles were omnipresent.

I felt guilty about only focusing on Pizza, knowing that the cities inhabitants, however proud, wanted to be known for more. Still, if I asked someone why they came to Brooklyn and their reply was “Pizza”, or any food for that matter, I would smile and possibly marry them ;). Although I could have had Pizza for every meal, I trusted a local and did have an exceptional meal of Seafood Spaghetti alongside a Contorni Mista one afternoon at Antica Trattoria Da Carmine.

For a “Digestive”, I stopped into “Limoné” (www.limoncellodinapoli.it), the Lemoncello headquarters to learn how it is made and now have a trustworthy connection; making importing feasible when the time is right…

Tonight, it is back to Pizza before I head to the Agriturismo in Paestum, Salerno early tomorrow morning.