Substance

I have a distinct memory of intrigue for this perfect neighborhood Restaurant. Like many Restaurants not supported by recommendations or proactive inquiry, I made the mental note to return. But while many places dissolve into remembrance, "Sostanza' became a compass for other restaurants. I would peek in to watch the handsome waiter prepare their signature Strawberry dessert or to watch the young chef learn how to cut the perfect Florentine Steak. “Sostanza” emanates local buzz, a characteristic promoted by the communal table template of its front of house and what I specifically look for in a Restaurant.


Only after my third meal, did I realize that my lil “find” was considered by many the best Restaurant in Florence. A google later pulled up extensive chatter about their specialty dishes, the best times to arrive, how to navigate the menu etc. But by this point I already felt like a regular. They knew me and enjoyed my New Yorkese passion. Being a well lit Trattoria, I could speak freely and being alone meant I always made friends. I continued to return because there were dishes I felt compelled to try at least once. Your proximity to other guests encouraged this temptation; whether for Steak or a simple Contorni. Here are the highlights, the first and last Florentine Steak included.

Tortoni di Carciofo, a scandalously scrumptious omelet of Artichoke. The Chefs’ precision was perfectly clear in its preparation. Only a skilled wrist could wistfully create not only visible outer layers of buttery egg, but also an entrenched center for its main ingredient, fresh abundant Artichoke swimming in just cooked gooey yolk.

Their famous Pollo in burra; a bubbling personal portioned scalding pan of Chicken in Butter. The pictures unfortunately don’t do the dish justice and it had to be eaten immediately. With more thought I would have videotaped it to remember its distinct sizzle.

Prosciutto crudo cut thickly to showcase its perfectly creamy and pricey outer lardo.

Bistecca di Florentina / Florentine Steak (the single biggest Tourist trap of Florence). A grandiose Porterhouse of Chianina Beef (white Oxen from Arezzo) sold by its weight. It is served charred with a hot pink center and can be ordered for one or more. It is not only overpriced and showy, but often cooked (and eaten) poorly. I have watched Americans waste their money’s worth of meat. I have studied other diners’ approach and in my sleep had carefully calculated my way to maximize the experience. My waiter knew this was my last culinary adventure in Italy (an important bookend). He invited me into the kitchen to approve the Steak and meet the chefs and from afar I watched them tend to my indulgent Secondi. As I ate, the staff watched me carefully make sense out of my knife’s acrobatics and waste nothing. After, they commented on my precision and passion.

Fragolini con Vino Rosso e Zucchero / Wild Strawberry’s with Red Wine and Sugar ended my meal. Bitter and to the point it was my digestive and my farewell.

Lucca

1.5 hrs past the clustered Firenze skyline, aboard a graffiti enhanced regional train for the cost of a Panini brought me to Lucca for a single afternoon. Unlike most of my journey’s this was not brought on by a hunger for food. Being in Florence has reminded me about the qualities I appreciated in the smaller Southern Cities I have lived. I was in search of a dose of small city charm, new monuments and fresh faces…and yes a perfect meal.

Here’s the snapshot. The food follows…

My meal in Lucca was simple and cheap, a slow food find but without any destination pretense. "Buatino" encompassed the physical characteristics of a Restaurant in transition; an outward attempt to transcend the stylistic Trattoria confines with cluttered results.

I skipped a primi in favor of tempting main courses. My choice was confidently pungent without the heaviness of most roasted meats. Thick tender slices of Pork, marinated in Orange and Lemon was simply innovative and beautifully executed.



A selection of Pecorino's followed, a cheese plate I exhausted at the Restaurant in Montalcino. The highlight was the accompanying homemade Confettura of Red Apple, Red Grape & Walnut. Buonissimo!



Ciao Lucca*

I don’t know why

But this photo seems to characterize the angle I have been viewing Florence’s sights; reaching outward from the tourist gaze, either towards the mountains or the sky, across the Arno, back South to where my journey began or simply deep within myself. My approach to each city has been to re-imagine its intrinsic beauty as it pertains to my sensibility, bring out the colors my wine enhanced vision discerns and catalog it as both art and research.

Tonno di Miaile

This damn dish has had me brainstorm 15 different approaches to its preparation. Despite the fact that I think I know its secret; its simplicity, texture and confidence remains my culinary highlight of Florence thus far.

Tender “meat”, lightly caramelized (possibly cinnamon) served with perfectly moist, freshly soaked Fagiole (white beans) and drenched in bursting yellow Olive Oil crudo.

I have been told that this is a traditional Tuscan household technique of storing Pork (similar to curing, smoking, bottling etc), but this has not been substantiated by shop-owners, chefs or online inquiries. Thus, I refuse to believe its Pork! So I ask…

Tuna in the style of Pork? Pork in the style of Tuna?

Functional Vintage

I would expect to see this collection of antique pasta machines in a museum rather than a functioning pasta store in the center of Florence. Tucked away on a tilted side street this little “find” has been churning out Ravioli’s for over 40 years.

I have been quietly noting the artisanal craftsm(wo)anship that I have seen peeking in store windows which include antique presses, key makers, restoration machinery, framing, textile etc. This research has come full circle as my findings have shifted conveniently into the production of food. Although the physical act of eating remains constant the impact of technology on food production and mass consumption is a major dialogue not only in the foodies whose subscribe to Slow Food movement and the farmers who toil the land, but with every Restaurant owner (big and small), parent and major fast food corporation.

Back in Florence...

...and ready to finish up strong.

& the rest...

Mention the food of Bologna to folks in the South and expect a similar reply, "pesante/ heavy!". The food in Bologna not only favors Butter over Olive Oil and a deep love of all things Meat, but also how the cuisine boldy distinguishes its typical plates by their layered flavors and depth of character; a vastly different motif than the fresh ripeness that commenced my trip.

Below are typical dishes of Bologna. Get into it.

Stinco di Maile / Pork Shank

Passata di Porcini con Polpettini- A thick soup of fresh Porcini mushrooms, finished with cream. Small Mortadella enhanced meatballs additionally thicken the sauce and are mimicked by equal sized fried dough balls which rest atop (a gourmet addition).

Bolita Mista - A selection of boiled meats including Suasage, Beef Tongue, Game hen, sliced "bianco / white" Sausage, Boiled Rabbit and Brisket. Served alongside three distinct sauces (a cnadied hot fruit sauce, stewed onion and tomatoes in the style of Pepperonata and a salsa verde / fresh green sauce).

A famous (ie. Michelin starred) Antipasti di Casa consisting of Roast Beef, Pork covered in Tuna enhanced Mayonnaise (and Capers), Prosciutto and lastly its famous center piece; Mortadella Mousse with gelatinized Balsamic. A plate of overly French influenced, old $, stuffy, but tasty Bolognese delicacies.

Tagliatelle Bolognese- Bologna's most famous dish of ground meat stewed indefinitely with fresh Tomato Paste, Olive Oil and a touch of cream. A rich dish with little sauce, not easily twirled, but easily digestible.

Tortellini in Brodo

While Chaney slept, I ventured the City streets early one morning in search of a food find. What unfolded in those early hours was a whole industry of artisan Tortellini makers, twirling their fingers and dancing their palms on behalf of Tortellini, one of Bologna’s most beloved “Tipici Piatti’s”. It felt like every other storefront consisted of this peaceful ritual. And so I invited myself in to witness the love.

The traditional Tortellini is filled with a combination of Pork Sausage, Parmesan and Mortadella (a local salumi which distinguishes most plates of this region from those both North and South). There are other varieties, half moon Ravioli’s, spinach Tagliettelle, but the Tortellini remains the lil treasure to write home about.

For our first meal in Bologna I had the “Tortellini in Brodo”, a dish revered locally for its perfection. But the dish I had (at a very reputable restaurant) confused me slightly. The Tortellini’s were barely cooked, indeed more “Al dente” than I have experienced any Pasta in Italy thus far. Was this 1) as intended 2) was the heat of the broth meant to cook them to perfection through the course of me eating the dish 3) was it a mistake 4) was it not to my taste? Regardless I understood their compact flavor and the broth’s conscious subtlety. But…

Now for the controversy! A trip back through my archives discloses a “Tortellini in Brodo” I had in Lecce, Puglia that my notebook describes as “a broth so perfect its light fat content floats only to shine as much for flavor as metaphor. The Tortellini’s complete the dish having just soaked in that perfect bath and they too glisten with this now shared love.” Big words, however drunk I might have been.

So I conclude that thus far, my favorite “Tortellini in Brodo” was actually in Lecce, not Bologna.

A new season, a new city, new vegetables!

Had I done my Italy trip backwards (North to South, Summer to Winter), my palette would have experienced a new spectrum of typical seasonal dishes that I have not yet tasted, cooked or fully understood. A trip to the Mercato in Bologna is a ripe reminder of Vegetables I have never seen, nor eaten. Here’s a quick once over.

3 altogether new Zucchini’s…

Cardi, a celery like stalk in the artichoke family.

Long Radicchio

Shamefully I don’t know the name of this, but it’s intertwined Bokchoy-like stems are beautiful. I would give a “just blanched crunchy salad approach” to its preparation.

Raw Olives, which I have never seen sold “crudo”, nor do I understand exactly why. I saw many different varieties and was invited to taste them raw, a bitter experience to say the least.

The love did not stop with the Vegetables. Our Northern lattitude also treated us to a wide slection of the best Parma Ham, Parmesan Reggiano and Mortadella Italy has to offer...